BARBARIAN DAYS - A Surfing Life by William Finnegan roman INTERVIEW: THE SWELL CZAR

INTERVIEW: THE SWELL CZAR

Unsere Edelfeder Bob Black bringt uns erneut zum Nachdenken

AFROSURF enthält über fünfzig Essays

eines haben alle gemeinsam: die Sehnsucht nach dem Meer und den Wellen – auf der Suche nach Adrenalin und Freiheit

“Our first record was still running on fuel from starting the band as 18 year olds with a rock’n’roll dream

BARBARIAN DAYS - A Surfing Life by William Finnegan roman INTERVIEW: THE SWELL CZARWinner of the Pulitzer Prize for biography 2016. Winner of the 2016 William Hill sports book of the year prize. Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South